The Sally List of things to do in New Orleans ... I hope you get inspired!
IN PROGRESS – MORE TO COME
Carey Signature Livery – Private Towncars, Stretch Limos, Vans, Mini-buses, and custom transport solutions. Knowledgeable, professional, and courteous drivers, including my favorite, New Orleans old-timer Gerard Donovan, not only whisk you anywhere you need to go, but also offer suggestions and ideas on where to go, what to do, and whom to connect with to get the inside track. Special tours and arrangements happily accommodated with advanced notice. For bookings, ring Paul or John on 1-504-523-6511 or toll free on 1-800-495-0201.
Tours by Isabelle – Tours and Day Trips – Extensive City, Post-Katrina, Plantation, and Bayou Tours. Highly insightful, with great excursions of varying themes and duration. Very professional, polite, and respectful tours of the storm-ravaged areas; fun, open airboat swamp tours; in-depth city tours; and visits to historic plantations. Must-see plantations are the majestic Oak Alley (featured in the film of Anne Rice's “Interview with the Vampire” {starring Tom Cruise and Brad Pitt}, the thriller “Hush, Hush Sweet Charlotte” {starring Bette Davis}, and countless other films, as well as the Sci-Fi Channe's recently-aired Ghost Hunters – yes! paranormal activity has been spotted! Another must-see is Laura Plantation, the recently opened, 200 year-old women-owned, women-run sugar plantation. Ring Isabelle on 1-504-391-3544 or toll free on 1-877-665-8687.
See/Stroll: Prospect.1 New Orleans - Contemporary Art (City-wide) the largest biennial of international contemporary art ever organized in the United States opens on 1 November. To be held in museums, historic buildings, and found sites throughout New Orleans, Prospect.1 aims to reinvigorate the city following the devastation left by Hurricane Katrina.
Watch: The Prytania Theatre – Movies (Uptown) 90-year old cinema is Louisiana's sole single-screen movie theatre and New Orleans' oldest operating theatre. The Prytania is host to numerous events, including the Animation, New Orleans, and French Film festivals, as well as their very own Academy Awards party, where guests dress up, walk the red carpet, and watch the Oscars projected onto its new huge screen. Recently renovated, The Prytania's new seating and state-of-the-art sound and projection systems keep moviegoers happy. Skip the corporate multiplex at Canal Place across the street; there's no better way to watch whatever's playing (“Zack and Miri make a porno” is showing the week of the 'con) whilst supporting 88 year-old owner Rene Brunet's dream and heeding the call of the retro preview flick “Let’s All Go to the Lobby” for loopy snacks (such as pickles!) at the concession stand.
See: Anne Rice House (2523 Prytania Street, Garden District) separate from the rest of the "Haunted" tour subjects, this is the former home of New Orleans author and the source of madness for all-things-vampiric (inspired by her character, Lestat, in Interview with the Vampire). Up until her move to California a few years ago, Rice's home was a magnet for legions of die-hard fans, who would flock outside in hopes of a glimpse of the author, who would open her house for private tours on special occasions.
Brevard-Mahat-Rice House (1239 First Street, Garden District) 1857 Greek Revival town house has been “updated” with an Italianate bay; originally called Rosegate for the rosette pattern on the fence (considered the precursor to the chain-link fence.) The early home of novelist Anne Rice and setting for her Witching Hour novels.
Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 (Garden District – across the street from Commander's Palace) one of the city's oldest cemeteries – a.k.a. "cities of the dead" – was established as a city cemetery in 1833. Historical background: as the city is 9'+ below sea level, coffins traditionally buried underground would often surface by the water table or during heavy rains, which is why bodies were later buried in raised structures. Lafayette No. 1 also contains long wall vaults that resemble baker's brick ovens, created to accommodate multiple burials due to limited space (a rather macabre recycle-reuse method, taking place usually one year after burial). Popular with Anne Rice fans, and contains some sites from her books (Mayfair witches' family tomb, for example). NOTE: many cemetery gates post city police "patrolled" signs, however, that is rarely the case. As such, BE VERY CAREFUL when visiting cemeteries – never visit alone, as predatory crime is common. If in doubt, speak with Isabelle (see above) about booking a guided cemetery tour. Located on Washington between Prytania and Coliseum Streets. Closed Sundays.
See/Stroll: excellent tours of the French Quarter by rangers from the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park. Details available at http://www.nps.gov/jela/french-quarter-site.htm
See/Stroll: (Sally's Self-Directed) French Quarter Architecture Tour (see “Haunted” notations, particularly if going out over Hallowe'en). Founded in 1718, La Nouvelle Orléans was originally reclaimed from a swamp around the Palace d' Armes (now Jackson Square) and named Vieux Carré (Old Square). Louisiana changed control from French to Spanish (1762 to 1800) and back to French control before being sold to the United States in 1803. This is one of the reasons signage in the French Quarter is in both French and Spanish. During the Spanish rule, the Quarter was nearly destroyed by fire, where over 1,050 structures were lost. Rebuilding was done in the Spanish style, which is reflected in those buildings with wrought iron balconies and central courtyards. Many of the French Quarter's buildings are private homes and other residences; some who live there are 5th generation members of historically-significant families. More than 35,000 buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places are in the French Quarter. [EXTENSIVE BUILDING LIST FORTHCOMING]
Got Kids? Check this out:
See: Aquarium of the Americas (Central Business District) check out the million+ gallons of exhibits, such as the world's largest collection of jellyfish, a rain forest, and special Mississippi River and Gulf of Mexico installations. Be sure to see the white alligator! Aquarium life was devastated by Hurricane Katrina, where most of the 10,000 fish were killed as a result of days'-long power outages. The Aquarium's ongoing Adopt-an-Animal program continues to solicit funds for rebuilding. Please contribute generously!
See/Float: Natchez Paddleboat (French Quarter) Embark on a historic sternwheel steamboat for a two-hour cruise up and down the Mississippi River. The Natchez is the only steamboat still operating from New Orleans. Board behind the Jackson Brewery to the tunes of traditional calliope music, and sit outside on one of the Natchez' many decks (I prefer the top!). Walk around, check out the engine room, paddle wheel, and grab a cocktail and enjoy the live jazz band; do skip the buffet. Lots of history about New Orleans, the Mississippi, the paddleboat. You'll get to see the river in action – cargo ships and barges – as well as some of the city's attractions – Jackson Square, the Riverwalk and Aquarium, St. Louis Cathedral, Chalmette Battle Field, and more – whilst learning the history of the Crescent City from a unique angle.
Hear:
Checkpoint Charlie's – Blues/Rock (Fauberg Marigny) film location scouts' favorite, this dive-y 24-hour bar-cum-laundromat is filled with biker-rocker-eclectic-student-type patrons who listen to live music (usually rock, with occasional jazz/blues/R&B/acoustic performances, and Sundays open mic blues jam), eat, drink, shoot pool, read from their library and, naturally, launder. Casual, cheap, and kooky.
Mulate's – Cajun Music/Dancing/Restaurant (Warehouse District) the bayou comes alive at the city's most authentic Cajun experience. Live zydeco music, Cajun accents, and dancing nightly starting at 7PM in a casual, fun environment. Don't be shy: get up and join the fun – pick up an instrument or go for a whirl on the dance floor and dance the two-step. Performances during ApacheCon include Bayou Deville, Lee Benoit and the Bayou Stompers, and La Touché. Excellent, down-home spicy Cajun fare includes alligator, frog legs, boudin, catfish, crawfish etouffee, blackened oysters, plantation tea, and zydeco tornadoes. Super-friendly staff. No reservations.
Preservation Hall – Traditional Jazz (French Quarter) enthusiasts fill this tiny 260 year-old landmark to capacity 7 nights a week to watch spellbinding performances by budding musicians and veterans in their 70s and 80s. Environment is bare-bones, with no seats, no air-conditioning/ventilation system, no food, no drink, and no smoking. This snapshot of history is a must-see, even if merely strolling by on your way to Pat O'Brien's. Shows taking place during ApacheCon include performances by the Preservation Hall Band, Brass Band Thursdays, Carl LeBlanc & the Essential N.O. Jazz Band, and the Preservation Hall Jazz Masters.
Rock'N'Bowl-Mid City Lanes – Rock and Bowl(ing) (Mid-City) zany mix of live music, drinking, dancing, and bowling still going strong after 60 years. Loud, raucous and fun, featuring local performances from old-school swing to swamp rock to zydeco; both visitors and staff are known to kick it up in a Cajun two-step or hopping on the bar late into the night. Retro-crazy, cool digs.
Snug Harbor – Jazz (Fauberg Marigny) loyalists are fervent about this bar/club/restaurant whose performers include emerging local talent and international powerhouses such as Ellis Marsalis and Charmaine Neville. Live shows nightly (8PM and 10PM), with jazz trumpet Wednesdays, and occasional midnight jam sessions on Friday and Saturday. Seating is grouped into restaurant, bar, and show sections, so if you want to watch the performers, you'll need to purchase tickets specifically for that area – keep in mind, however, that the seating is first come-first served; arrive early to minimize disappointment. Owned by same folks who run Port of Call, the restaurant features many of the same menu items, with seriously strong Monsoons and Huma-Humas, what's considered to be the best burgers in town (hold the artificial bacon bits!) and huge, super-loaded baked potatoes. Service is notoriously slow, so sit back and relax.
Tipitina's – Jazz (Uptown – original; also a French Quarter outpost) one of New Orleans' most popular clubs supports all sorts of local musicians, primarily jazz, but also funk, rock, country, and hip-hop. Always packed, Tipitina's draws emerging and established artists, with performances by Dr. John, James Brown, Bonnie Raitt, the Neville Brothers, Lenny Kravitz, Nine Inch Nails, Better Than Ezra, Pearl Jam, Stevie Ray Vaughan, Tim McGraw, Goo Goo Dolls, Robert Cray and more. Through the Tipitina's Foundation, the club's owners have furthered their commitment to Louisiana's music legacy by donating over $2M in instruments to area school music programs, to helping revitalize Fats Domino's Lower 9th Ward neighborhood. In addition, the Foundation has been instrumental in making Fats the quintessential face of New Orleans’ rebirth. Charel and I attended the sold-out fundraiser for Fats Dominoes' birthday in February – catch the 5 November world premiere of the documentary “Fats Domino: Walkin' Back To New Orleans”. Playing in the French Quarter location during ApacheCon is brass/funk band Hill Country Review Featuring members of North Mississippi Allstars with Special Guests Rotary Downs.